AUTOMNE & HIVER 2017-18, "l'homme quelconque"
In its AW17 collection, École the Pensée explores the rich aesthetic of the 1980s men’s tailoring. It draws inspiration from the unconstructed and comfortable elegance that became more and more popular, especially in Italy, during this eventful period. While maintaining its strong attention to details and quality, as well as keeping the importance of functionality and versatility in mind, the brand rethinks its core aesthetic by fusing it with the relaxed, yet tailored ease proper to the 80s Italian menswear. The collection features a wide selection of tailored pieces, including overcoats, suits, blazers, trousers and a variety of shirts and overshirts. The cuts are mostly roomy, relaxed and balanced, following the idea of creating comfortable tailoring that is still finely made and somehow structured, even though it is looser. Consequently, oversized coats, wide leg double-pleated trousers and exaggeratedly large work shirts unite to recreate a modern interpretation of the theatrical elegance of the 80s Italian «uomo».
The collection also features several knitwear pieces, such as the brand’s signature 100% alpaca chunky crewneck, as well as a new 100% baby alpaca cableknit and a selection of beanies and scarves. Like in the previous collections, all the pieces are designed to be interpreted personally and easily layered. In addition to the main 80s inspiration, the École de Pensée’s very own touch also shapes the collection. For instance, the display of the details on some pieces is inspired by the way of setting the composition of a photography. Or for example, sartorial details, such as functional sleeve buttonholes, half-canvas structures and flawless seam finishings feature on every tailored piece.
FABRICS & COLORS
The search for unique fabrics has been a path to the main inspiration for the FW17 collection. The 80s have been an era of massive globalisation in fashion and therefore, the beginning of importation of more foreign fabrics in traditionally self-sufficient industries. For instance, the combination of Italian couture and Japanese fabrics started to appear in some designers’ collections, allowing for innovation in terms of style at that time. Inspired by this mix, École de Pensée’s selection of fabrics for this season includes rich Italian wool blends for suiting and overcoating, Portuguese wool and camel suiting fabrics, as well as Japanese poplins and flannel shirting fabrics. Also inspired by the 1980s Italian tailoring, the color scheme includes a soft palette blending shades of grey with warm tones of beige, ochre and mustard yellow. Touches of moss green and dark green also take part in the collection scheme, adding richness to the contrasts.