The fall/winter 2016 collection
The FW16 collection is layered out as a balanced ensemble composed of classic pieces reinterpreted for today’s lifestyle. Its aesthetic is inspired by the visual identity of days gone by. Borrowing elements from the male wardrobe of the 1920s to the 1940s, as well as the philosophy that prevailed among artisans from that era, the collection takes shape with the same attention to quality, functionality and durability that characterized the textile industry of the old days. Therefore, meticulous finishing touches, high-end fabrics and peerless durability take pride of place.
Also inspired by the work of English tailors, the selection includes multiple traditional sartorial pieces, finely tailored using exceptional British fabrics. Taking advantage of the remarkable savoir-faire of the European factories the brand works with, the pieces feature precise structures and exquisite sartorial details such as functional sleeve buttonholes on all the coats and jackets.
The brand tried to showcase the understated chic that characterized men’s outfits during the early 20th century, while keeping the style modern enough so the collection can seamlessly blend into contemporary men’s everyday wardrobe. It is mainly with bold layering that the collection exudes all its complexity. It is easily malleable thanks to the harmony of its colors and the homogeneity of its fabrics, which allows to create different types of outfits, from the vintage and dressed up “British dandy” look to the completely alternative Bohemian style.
Cuts, materials and colors in detail
Using noble materials is an integral part of École de Pensée’s approach. For this winter collection, the brand is using knits of great richness: 100% alpaca crewneck sweaters and beanies as well as 100% baby alpaca turtleneck sweaters and scarves. As for the sartorial pieces, fabrics from British weaver Abraham Moon predominate with extra fine merino and cashmere flannels, Shetland wool tweeds and 100% merino coating fabrics. More fabrics are also part of the collection: a sumptuous cotton corduroy, a rich moleskin and a Japanese flannel featuring a tonal windowpane pattern.
The shirts are tailored using a variety of Japanese fabrics such as Typewriter cotton poplins, light cotton and wool flannels and even supple corduroy. Finishing materials also benefit from the same level of quality, in such a way that all the coats, jackets and trousers are lined with Japanese Bemberg (100% cupro) and are embellished with natural horn buttons, while shirts all sport flawless mother of pearl buttons.
The color scheme used this season inspires tranquility and sobriety. Multiple tones of grey are mixed with rich and textured shades of cream, beige and brown. Few patterns such as a windowpane check and a textured herringbone pattern punctuate the mainly uniform aspect of the colors, adding depth and contrast to the collection. Finally, not a single hue of black has been used this season; it is rather a deep blue that has been chosen as the darkest color, which smoothly completes the color scheme of the collection.